And, if you are interested, here are some of our Thailand shots!
Enjoy. : )
Monday, August 6, 2007
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Tidbits from Thailand
I thought I would capture some of the highlights and impressions from our stay here in Thailand. Our adventures are coming to a close... two more nights and one more day in Bangkok and then we have the epic travel home.
These are some of the aspects of this country that really intrigued and captivated me. Enjoy! : )
* The warmth and friendliness of the Thai people. They have such easy smiles and are so quick to laugh and have fun.
These are some of the aspects of this country that really intrigued and captivated me. Enjoy! : )
* The warmth and friendliness of the Thai people. They have such easy smiles and are so quick to laugh and have fun.
* A crisp, cold Singha beer in this sweltering, hot, humid climate.
* Not having to wear a long-sleeved top or sweater.... ever! : )
* Biting into a fresh mangosteen. The fruit is deep purple, and about the size of a plum. You tear it open in half, and the white globes, almost looking like garlic cloves, taste tangy, sweet, and succulent.
* The street markets that are open at all hours of the day and night seem to serve any kind of food imaginable. Where you find big bowls of meat soup that seem to marinate for days, alongside skewers of tofu, fresh fruit, Pad Thai, Thai soup, and pancakes. (mmm! banana and chocolate!)
* The crazy rules of the road, or lack thereof. Where motorcycles and scooters (the most agile vehicles of the road) can travel in any direction - with the traffic, against the traffic, in between and around vehicles. whatever they wamt. Where tuk tuks and song thaews are the most economical and often most terrifying automobiles to travel in. Where there never seems to be any road rage, people use their horn to let others know that they are there.
* Seeing the street dogs and cats (and often puppies and kittens). They are everywhere and are so cute. Lean and friendly and quite affectionate. Dogs will often follow you and lay down next to you, not begging or wanting anything, just enjoying your company. I can tell you that there were quite a few I wanted to take home with me.
* The ocean. Blue-green and warm like bathwater. Lined with pure white sand. Water that has so much saline and minerals in it, that it's almost impossible to sink.
* The food!! I've eaten like a queen these past couple of weeks. I love the fragrant, wholesome, spicy Thai food, and I've come to crave rice. The food is so fresh and so available and absolutely delicious!
* The sweetest bananas I have ever tasted.
* It's been very disconcerting to be in a country where the concept of recycling simply does not exist. I'm very troubled by the sheer number of plastic water bottles that Jack and I alone have used on this trip. I don't actually know where all the garbage goes, and it's very hard to think of the kind of impact that I have made on this beautiful place.
* The most aggressive and inexpensive massages I have ever had. One hour of being put into yoga-like positions by someone the size of Cindy Chow with hands and legs and elbows and knees that pummel you into a jelly-like state. One hour for about $10. Unbelievable.
* The concept of island time. Something you need to consider whenever you have to travel anywhere. Schedules and timetables here are very loose.
See you when we get home! Bye for now.
xo
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
The Full Moon Party - Mardi Gras in Thailand
Yesterday was the Full Moon Party here on Ko Phangan. This is no ordinary party - this is quite an event. The full moon was actually on the 29th, but because of a Buddhist holiday, it was held on the 31st.
The Buddhist holiday is called Asarnha Puja day, which marks Buddha's first sermon which he gave on the full moon day of the eighth lunar month. The day is named Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta day, which is the name of the sermon where Buddha talked about "The Middle Way", which means that if we wish to be successful in Spiritual life, we should avoid the two extremes: Trying too hard, such as not eating or not sleeping enough. and/or Not trying hard enough, such as eating and sleeping too much.
The Full Moon Party has no middle way - it is all about extremes. We left our resort in a Toyota Hilux pickup truck with 17 other party-goers crammed in. The drive to the Haad Rin beach is about 5 km of twisty turny narrow roads that climb and dive and climb some more. Combine that with hot, humid weather, and crazy drivers, and you wonder if you are going to make it there alive.
Once you get to one of the side roads that run along parallel to the beach, you find yourself passing creperies, bars, restaurants, and stores, all selling wares to get you in the spirit. Following the throngs of people winding their way through the streets, you make your way down to the beach.
Picture a wide open beach about 2 km in length, packed with about 20,000 people, and about a dozen bars lined up along the beach each blasting their own rhythms and music. International and Thai DJ's make the crowd go wild. The DJ's play all kinds of music; techno, trance, goa, drum n' bass, dub, reggae, "commercial hits", house etc on about 15 sound systems along the beach. For example, the Zoom specializes in Techo/Trance; the Cactus in Rock; the Drop In Bar was all about Hip Hop/Rap.
Everyone is drinking from the ubiquitous bucket - a plastic bucket more commonly used to build sand castles, filled to the brim with a mickey of your liquor of choice (vodka, sangsom/thai rum, whiskey), some pop or red bull, and ice. Add a couple of extra straws (for friends you might meet) and away you go. All for a mere 300 baht ($10). People were scantily clad in tight island/beach wear and sporting full moon party paint - neon pink, yellow, blue, and green paint that comes alive underneath a black light.
Dance floors were set up on tables. Mats were laid out in the sand for people to recline. There was even a station set up that was a designated sleep area, since the party is expected to last all night. Not to mention the After Party, which starts at 8am to go all day on the 1st.
There were jugglers and fire eaters. People walking around carrying iguanas the length of their arms, snakes, monkeys. There were people swimming in the ocean, and the shore line was dotted with longboats waiting to take people home after the party. There were even impromptu fireworks on display.
The whole party was all about letting go - of inhibitions, of barriers, of restraints - and just giving into the crowds, the people, the energy, and the music. A once in a lifetime event for sure!
Sunday, July 29, 2007
enjoying the energy
Traveling here is absolutely good, to be honest. I've written about the length of time it takes, at length (pardon the pun), because I kind of felt it made for a good story. But, I really like it here. It's so different from any other place I've experienced. There's this energy and hustle and bustle that is so beautiful and so addictive. People are warm and friendly. Even in the red light district, you get the feeling that people are actually having fun! Thai people enjoy laughing and smiling and tossing around jokes. No one takes themselves too seriously. No one feels that they are above or beyond someone else. It feels like a very accepting place. And it's infectious and fun.
When we've walked the streets, we've seen a lot of stray dogs. Even they seem to exist in harmony, you don't see any fights, any struggles, no overt hierarchy or power structures. They each kind of mosey along and do their own thing. I've yet to see or hear someone chasing a dog away from a restaurant or store front or anything. It's like everyone understands that they can coexist easily. It feels quite remarkable.
Frankly, I am going to miss this energy. It's amazing to be able to walk outside from your hotel/room and feel the energy that is alive on the streets. People are moving and talking and laughing, there is always something going on. Yesterday, for example, at 6:45 am, when Jack & I went off to get some water before our excursion day, two women (more likely lady-boys), had just left the Cabaret and were singing "We are the Champions, my friend!" at the top of their lungs. Clearly coming home after a long and crazy night of dancing and partying. It's like jumping into a freezing cold lake - it leaves you breathless and laughing and wanting more. : )
When we've walked the streets, we've seen a lot of stray dogs. Even they seem to exist in harmony, you don't see any fights, any struggles, no overt hierarchy or power structures. They each kind of mosey along and do their own thing. I've yet to see or hear someone chasing a dog away from a restaurant or store front or anything. It's like everyone understands that they can coexist easily. It feels quite remarkable.
Frankly, I am going to miss this energy. It's amazing to be able to walk outside from your hotel/room and feel the energy that is alive on the streets. People are moving and talking and laughing, there is always something going on. Yesterday, for example, at 6:45 am, when Jack & I went off to get some water before our excursion day, two women (more likely lady-boys), had just left the Cabaret and were singing "We are the Champions, my friend!" at the top of their lungs. Clearly coming home after a long and crazy night of dancing and partying. It's like jumping into a freezing cold lake - it leaves you breathless and laughing and wanting more. : )
Fun in the Sun
Yesterday was our excursion day - we decided to take a tour to do some snorkeling, kayaking, and sightseeing amongst the Angthong National Marine Park. The marine park is situated off the North of Ko Samui, about an hour boat ride. It is made up of about 42 little islands, all made out of limestone, and and surrounded by turquoise water and dotted with pure white strips of beach. It is absolutely breathtaking. The limestone juts from the ocean, in layers upon layers, and the part of the landmass closest to the ocean is gouged out from the rain and water.
We parked the boat in one spot and snorkeled amongst the coral - in brilliant shades of green and purple - and watched thousands of fish feed and swim circles around us. We swam around for an hour or so, and then hopped back into the boat, gulping down a crisp, ice cold Pepsi as a treat.
The next leg was a half hour drive around some lagoons to the actual Marine Park headquarters. We hit the beach and headed for picnic tables, where we dined on green vegetable curry and bananas that are so fragrant and sweet, they taste unbelievable.
After lunch, we piled into two person kayaks and cruised around a couple of islands, stopping briefly on a narrow beach for a swim and some ice cold bottled water. After the kayaks, it was time to get back on the boat, and head for the Emerald Lake. This lake was carved out between limestone cliffs, and is about 3 meters deep. To get there, you need to climb a very steep staircase, that winds itself up the face of the limestone, through a tiny crevice, and then falls back to the water. It was a fun and exhilarating hike, especially with crowds of people slipping and grasping onto railings and friends. It definitely got my adrenalin going! ; )
The hike was the last part of the excursion. The boat ride back to our minivan was quiet and hypnotic, nearly everyone fell asleep, as the boat jumped and crashed in the waves. The sun was quiet hot by then, and the wind felt good in my hair.
After showering and relaxing, Jack and I hit the town for some food. We found a delicious Italian restaurant, which seems quite funny and out of place here in Thailand, but it felt nice to have a change. And OMG, the food was fantastic. fresh pastas (spinach and ricotta ravioli, and spaghetti aglio & olio with chili oil), and washed down with a gorgeous glass of chilled red wine. Yum!
Today we head for Ko Phangan - the island of the Full Moon Party which will be held tomorrow night (the 31st!). More on that later.
Ciao for now.
We parked the boat in one spot and snorkeled amongst the coral - in brilliant shades of green and purple - and watched thousands of fish feed and swim circles around us. We swam around for an hour or so, and then hopped back into the boat, gulping down a crisp, ice cold Pepsi as a treat.
The next leg was a half hour drive around some lagoons to the actual Marine Park headquarters. We hit the beach and headed for picnic tables, where we dined on green vegetable curry and bananas that are so fragrant and sweet, they taste unbelievable.
After lunch, we piled into two person kayaks and cruised around a couple of islands, stopping briefly on a narrow beach for a swim and some ice cold bottled water. After the kayaks, it was time to get back on the boat, and head for the Emerald Lake. This lake was carved out between limestone cliffs, and is about 3 meters deep. To get there, you need to climb a very steep staircase, that winds itself up the face of the limestone, through a tiny crevice, and then falls back to the water. It was a fun and exhilarating hike, especially with crowds of people slipping and grasping onto railings and friends. It definitely got my adrenalin going! ; )
The hike was the last part of the excursion. The boat ride back to our minivan was quiet and hypnotic, nearly everyone fell asleep, as the boat jumped and crashed in the waves. The sun was quiet hot by then, and the wind felt good in my hair.
After showering and relaxing, Jack and I hit the town for some food. We found a delicious Italian restaurant, which seems quite funny and out of place here in Thailand, but it felt nice to have a change. And OMG, the food was fantastic. fresh pastas (spinach and ricotta ravioli, and spaghetti aglio & olio with chili oil), and washed down with a gorgeous glass of chilled red wine. Yum!
Today we head for Ko Phangan - the island of the Full Moon Party which will be held tomorrow night (the 31st!). More on that later.
Ciao for now.
Friday, July 27, 2007
Kicking back in Ko Samui
Just a little travel update from Ko Samui on July 28...
We've settled into a gorgeous room at the Chaweng Beach Villa in Ko Samui. We plan on spending a few days here. Our room is the nicest we've stayed at so far. There's even a real shower! ; )
The beach is right at our doorstep - fine white sand, turquoise water, and rows upon rows of beach bars and eateries. There are copious numbers of jet ski, kayak, long boat rentals. And the beach is packed with sun worshippers, frisbee players, and party-goers.
At the other end of the hotel is the main drag Chaweng Beach road. This road is teeming with shops and boutiques. You can buy everything here - from Diesel, Billabong, Nike, Adidas, Gucci, Versace - clothes, linens, knick-knacks, hats, bags, sarongs, souvenirs, etc. The street is lined with bars and clubs, and thousands of restaurants and eateries. Everything from the very expensive, to street vendors selling roasted corn on the cob or fresh fruit. There's even a Starbucks and a Burger King, for those craving some good old fashioned North American cuisine. Lots to see and do.
Last night, after a Thai massage on the beach and a long swim in the ocean, we walked along the road for about 30 minutes, crossed a little waterway, and headed for the Bob Marley Reggae Pub. Ya mon!
The pub was located at the end of one of the side streets, just past the local red light district. The roads were packed with scooters, motorbikes, and tuk tuks as people made their way to see the main event of the evening - a Thai boxing match at the Chaweng Stadium. As we walked along past the bars that were adorned with their red lights and provocative names such as The Sugar Bar, Honey, Lucky, and other forms of subtle advertising, the girls draped on bar stools and sashaying to the beat grinned and giggled at seeing Jack. "Hello!" they yelled. We even heard someone say "Don't worry, I don't take your man."
The bar was huge and right against the water. We sat and sipped some rum and listened to the music. It must have been local talent night, because in between good reggae grooves, we'd hear someone belt out Kelly Clarkson's "Because of You" and Hoobastank's "The Reason is You." It was pretty hot out, and there wasn't much of a breeze. It didn't take much for the rum to go to my head, so after an hour or so, we made our way back to our bungalow.
We plan on soaking up some sun over the next few days - although it's raining pretty hard as I sit in this Internet cafe. Some of the things we'd like to enjoy are kayaking, snorkeling, taking in a tour of the Marine park nearby, submitted to more Thai massages on the beach, eating well, laughing a lot, and basically soaking in some rest and relaxation.
Hope all is well with you.
xo
We've settled into a gorgeous room at the Chaweng Beach Villa in Ko Samui. We plan on spending a few days here. Our room is the nicest we've stayed at so far. There's even a real shower! ; )
The beach is right at our doorstep - fine white sand, turquoise water, and rows upon rows of beach bars and eateries. There are copious numbers of jet ski, kayak, long boat rentals. And the beach is packed with sun worshippers, frisbee players, and party-goers.
At the other end of the hotel is the main drag Chaweng Beach road. This road is teeming with shops and boutiques. You can buy everything here - from Diesel, Billabong, Nike, Adidas, Gucci, Versace - clothes, linens, knick-knacks, hats, bags, sarongs, souvenirs, etc. The street is lined with bars and clubs, and thousands of restaurants and eateries. Everything from the very expensive, to street vendors selling roasted corn on the cob or fresh fruit. There's even a Starbucks and a Burger King, for those craving some good old fashioned North American cuisine. Lots to see and do.
Last night, after a Thai massage on the beach and a long swim in the ocean, we walked along the road for about 30 minutes, crossed a little waterway, and headed for the Bob Marley Reggae Pub. Ya mon!
The pub was located at the end of one of the side streets, just past the local red light district. The roads were packed with scooters, motorbikes, and tuk tuks as people made their way to see the main event of the evening - a Thai boxing match at the Chaweng Stadium. As we walked along past the bars that were adorned with their red lights and provocative names such as The Sugar Bar, Honey, Lucky, and other forms of subtle advertising, the girls draped on bar stools and sashaying to the beat grinned and giggled at seeing Jack. "Hello!" they yelled. We even heard someone say "Don't worry, I don't take your man."
The bar was huge and right against the water. We sat and sipped some rum and listened to the music. It must have been local talent night, because in between good reggae grooves, we'd hear someone belt out Kelly Clarkson's "Because of You" and Hoobastank's "The Reason is You." It was pretty hot out, and there wasn't much of a breeze. It didn't take much for the rum to go to my head, so after an hour or so, we made our way back to our bungalow.
We plan on soaking up some sun over the next few days - although it's raining pretty hard as I sit in this Internet cafe. Some of the things we'd like to enjoy are kayaking, snorkeling, taking in a tour of the Marine park nearby, submitted to more Thai massages on the beach, eating well, laughing a lot, and basically soaking in some rest and relaxation.
Hope all is well with you.
xo
Thai time
One of the things that Jack and I didn't think about much was the time it would take to travel around this country. Thailand is about the size of the state of Texas, and surprisingly, the roads and the infrastructure are remarkable. At least in the South, the roads are multi-laned and wide, and they seem to be in really good shape.
But man, oh man, it takes what feels like forever to travel even short distances. Part of it may be that the Thais are incredible generous and hospitable. They genuinely don't want you to feel uncomfortable or upset. They like to make you feel optimistic. And the refrain you are most likely to hear is "The bus come 10 minutes!" followed by a beautiful open smile.
Another factor to consider in, what I call, Thai time, is that there are so many methods of transportation. Each have their own set of strengths and weaknesses: the distances they cover, the number of people they can carry, and the time it takes to wait for them. Combined together, it can be a logistical nightmare.
Take, for instance, our travel from Krabi to Ko Samui. The actual distance covered was about 300 km. That's about the time it takes to drive to Kingston and back. Right? : )
We had booked a pickup at 10am. We arrived, optimistically, about 15 mins early. We were told by the smiling desk clerk that the bus was coming at 10am. At 10:05, we asked about the bus, and the same smiling guy told us "10:30!" OK, 10:30.
The car came around 10:40 and we hopped in. The A/C was broken, but 2 out of the 4 windows were working, so we cooled off with the breeze for the 20 minute drive from Ao Nang to Krabi.
When we arrived in a dusty, bus station in Krabi, it was almost 11. We were enthusiastically told that the minivan was due to arrive any moment. A Singha beer, a couple of liters of water, and many roasted cashew nuts later, the minivan arrived. It was 12. We piled in, to an already full van, and settled in for the bumpy 2.5 hour drive to Surat Thani (152 km away).
In Surat Thani, we checked in and got our bus/ferry tickets (little stickers on our t-shirts that said Sa mui). Departure time was leaving 3:30. We were told that we'd be able to catch the 5pm ferry and be in Ko Samui by 6:30! YAY! We grabbed some delicious veggie paenang at a restaurant called Lucky, and took ourselves and our full bellies back to the Island Ferry cafe depot.
Actually on time, we caught the rickshaw bus (two long benches in the back of a little tuk tuk) to the bus terminal. Excitedly, we saw our bus was waiting, and when we tried to get on, we were told that it wasn't quite ready. With big smiles and friendly gestures, we were offered a couple of benches to sit on to wait. We waited a few long hours until the bus was ready to take us the hour to the ferry terminal.
At the ferry terminal, we arrived just in time to see the ferry leave...the next one was at 6:30. We stood and stretched and chatted with some fellow weary travelers heading to the sun and sand. The ferry ride was gorgeous - the moon was almost full and lit the ocean with hypnotic strokes.The water was calm and it felt gorgeous to have the wind in our faces and hair.
We arrived at the Ra Ja pier at 8:30 and waited about a half hour or so for our taxi. It took us about 35 to cross the island and cruise the streets of Chaweng Beach road until we found our bungalow hotel!
A mere 12 hours later, we had arrived!
But man, oh man, it takes what feels like forever to travel even short distances. Part of it may be that the Thais are incredible generous and hospitable. They genuinely don't want you to feel uncomfortable or upset. They like to make you feel optimistic. And the refrain you are most likely to hear is "The bus come 10 minutes!" followed by a beautiful open smile.
Another factor to consider in, what I call, Thai time, is that there are so many methods of transportation. Each have their own set of strengths and weaknesses: the distances they cover, the number of people they can carry, and the time it takes to wait for them. Combined together, it can be a logistical nightmare.
Take, for instance, our travel from Krabi to Ko Samui. The actual distance covered was about 300 km. That's about the time it takes to drive to Kingston and back. Right? : )
We had booked a pickup at 10am. We arrived, optimistically, about 15 mins early. We were told by the smiling desk clerk that the bus was coming at 10am. At 10:05, we asked about the bus, and the same smiling guy told us "10:30!" OK, 10:30.
The car came around 10:40 and we hopped in. The A/C was broken, but 2 out of the 4 windows were working, so we cooled off with the breeze for the 20 minute drive from Ao Nang to Krabi.
When we arrived in a dusty, bus station in Krabi, it was almost 11. We were enthusiastically told that the minivan was due to arrive any moment. A Singha beer, a couple of liters of water, and many roasted cashew nuts later, the minivan arrived. It was 12. We piled in, to an already full van, and settled in for the bumpy 2.5 hour drive to Surat Thani (152 km away).
In Surat Thani, we checked in and got our bus/ferry tickets (little stickers on our t-shirts that said Sa mui). Departure time was leaving 3:30. We were told that we'd be able to catch the 5pm ferry and be in Ko Samui by 6:30! YAY! We grabbed some delicious veggie paenang at a restaurant called Lucky, and took ourselves and our full bellies back to the Island Ferry cafe depot.
Actually on time, we caught the rickshaw bus (two long benches in the back of a little tuk tuk) to the bus terminal. Excitedly, we saw our bus was waiting, and when we tried to get on, we were told that it wasn't quite ready. With big smiles and friendly gestures, we were offered a couple of benches to sit on to wait. We waited a few long hours until the bus was ready to take us the hour to the ferry terminal.
At the ferry terminal, we arrived just in time to see the ferry leave...the next one was at 6:30. We stood and stretched and chatted with some fellow weary travelers heading to the sun and sand. The ferry ride was gorgeous - the moon was almost full and lit the ocean with hypnotic strokes.The water was calm and it felt gorgeous to have the wind in our faces and hair.
We arrived at the Ra Ja pier at 8:30 and waited about a half hour or so for our taxi. It took us about 35 to cross the island and cruise the streets of Chaweng Beach road until we found our bungalow hotel!
A mere 12 hours later, we had arrived!
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